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Genius International Srl
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The Best ofIntima & Swim Edit

Retail

RETAILING THE FUTURE

08 March 2021

We turned to retail visual merchandising database experts WindowsWear who conducted an analysis of trends over this past year to help us find out more and accepted to share their insight and information with The Best of Intima.

Looking towards a new normal
As the world is coming to terms with the different health crises around the globe, what has become evident over the past year is that the Covid pandemic has acted as a catalyst, triggering and accelerating changes which would otherwise have taken years. From sanitised clothing to the overall predominance of digital technology, WindowsWear took a look at how retail stores and brands in the fashion industry are responding and adapting to a new normal.    
 
New beginnings in color

Following the lockdown in many countries and states, upon reopening stores all over the world were eager to welcome back clients and not afraid to nurture a sense of community. In New York, from Ralph Lauren to Harvey Nichols the new watchword was “togetherness”, Macy focused on “We Love NYC” and Saks 5th Avenue told customers how much they had missed them. In London, the iconic Selfridge’s had a makeover with its window displays paying homage to the National Health Service while French fashion house Louis Vuitton unveiled “The Rainbow project,” a new initiative that dresses its store windows all around the world in rainbow graphics.  Rainbows adorned stores in 5th Avenue, New York as well as Beverly Hills and Chicago but also further a field in Paris, Rome Milan, Madrid Frankfurt, Toronto and Mexico. The rainbows were submitted by locals and in many cases the graphics were drawn by children. Color has been a strong force for many to communicate the return to a normality, albeit different, and with a marked accent on the importance of supporting our communities.  

Ensuring safety
Store safety has become a primary issue, with owners clearly stating they have their customers’ wellbeing at heart. This entails rigorous and thorough cleaning and disinfecting of all store areas, the use of in-store signage, protective masks, gloves and hand-sanitizer as well as limiting access. Again, a normality we are quickly getting used to. Lacoste, while outlining guidelines observed, explained that it uses the Store Safety App for newly reopened stores so that customers can scan QR codes providing them with live updates on how many times and when the retail stores were professionally cleaned and sanitized. For those not wishing to enter stores, the solution adopted has been kerbside pickups.

Digitalization takes center stage
Consumer allegiance to powerful brands remains strong, even in these uncertain times. But the way in in which people interact with brands and shop for fashion has changed fast as the crisis accelerated shifts that were already happening in the industry. Users and providers acted fast.  Instagram and Facebook Live views doubled in a week and CEO Mark Zuckerberg said that at one point usage was so high that the company was “struggling to keep the lights on”. Live streaming, which in China has been a burgeoning industry for some time (already in 2018 it reached 456 million viewers and generated 4.4 billion in sales according to Deloitte) has skyrocketed. Short form video app Douyin is one of the most popular choices for fashion brands and retailers when it comes to live streaming. Tommy Hilfiger broadcasted its new eco-friendly collection on the app and enabled viewers to purchase products online directly.

“Canadian e-commerce platform Shopify’s market valuation has doubled to more than $80 billion since April 2020,” said COO Jarley Finkelstein. Facebook Shops, a social e-commerce concept that enables small brands to set up online shops on Facebook and Instagram advanced its roll over the past year and digital innovation is moving at a pace. Back in May 2020, Anifa Mvuenda designer of Hanifa broke new ground by showing her new collection on Instagram Live using digitally created 3D models and since then major brands have followed suit. Zara and Massimo Dutti’s parent company Inditex announced that it would be closing 1000 to 2000 retail stores within two years, shifting its focus to e-commerce and online sales due to the massive increase.  Other popular platforms fashion brands and retailers are using to maintain one-on-one relationships with customers are WeChat and WhatsApp. As explained by LVMH representative, “We know that people want to speak to sales associates from their phones and their living room, they want to receive the product in a luxury way at home, they want great services when they do kerb pickup, they want a video walkthrough of the collection online.” LVMH also extended cross border shipping and increased availability of merchandise online.

Virtual reality moves in
Massive changes in tech and consumers’ use of channels were already requiring a new approach to storytelling, creativity and brand communication. The pandemic has only accelerated this revolution: zoom conferences, Instagram Music Festivals, Tik Tok Cloud Raves, the  use of tech platforms for immersive experiences, connection and community have propelled while also taking on a variety of functions and uses. Now, as the Internet essentially becomes our ‘real world’ brands are thinking about how they can reinvent digitalization experiences in more creative and immersive ways, whether that’s a flagship, a fashion show or event.  

Several brands had embraced AR long before. Lacoste and Uniqlo had already opened virtual showrooms and fitting rooms to allow customers to try products in virtual spaces. Dior has now gone 3-D with a new virtual beauty boutique which looks like its shop on Paris’ Avenue des Champs Elysées and allows viewers to wander around, learn about products and make purchases. The boutique will be changed six times per year with different animations and products highlighted. Prada launched the Prada Virtual Reality Project, offering a series of interactive digital content on YouTube VR, VEER, Oculus, Youku and Facebook. The Prada Virtual Reality Project invites customers to discover the world of Prada from the comfort of their home and features a series of immersive experiences that take customers in a journey to key Prada locations around the world, making stops in Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles and culminating at the Fondazione Prada in Milan and Venice.

MK Digital Pop Up
When the Covid-19 outbreak undid plans for physical events across China to mark the launched of its new services, Michael Kors turned to Tmall’s upgraded storefront, Flagship Store 2.0 to design a pop-up experience for Chinese consumers. Through the pop-up users can take a personality quiz based on a series of lifestyle questions and receive a message and product recommendations from the brand’s namesake founder and designer himself. It also offers consumers the option of making hand-painted customization of the brand’s bags. “I love meeting my customers, helping them find the perfect pieces for their lifestyle and talking to them about how they can express their personal style,” said Michael Kors.

Diesel revealed the launch of a new digital platform and exhibition space called Hyeroom modelled after Diesel’s showroom in Milan. The virtual space was designed to be inviting and efficient. The goal is to offer an immersive environment with an emotional pull for buyers and vendors. A live Diesel vendor walks buyers throughout the virtual experience, describing collections and facilitating the process. At the end an easy-to-use interface offers and overview of their selections. Balmain opened its first digital showroom at 44 rue Francois-1er in Paris, the historic address of the house, to unveil its cruise collections with giant muses, virtual projectors and the avatar of Olivier Rausteing, the brand’s artistic director, projected in the store to serve as a host and guide for customers. 

Brands are also increasingly turning to Gamification, an accelerating trend in the fashion industry where it is seen as a way of encouraging customer loyalty turning shopping into a performance- oriented activity. The harvesting of user data not only aids production, inventory and sales but also creates communities by way of social networks established on the game’s own platform. The list of brands gamifying product is long and includes Burberry, Ferragamo, Valentino, Coach and Marc Jacobs. Gaming has exploded in its own right in fashion, inspiring commerce, social commentary and creating new types of celebrities. 

Virtual sampling
Similarly, the cometics segment has followed suit wiith  brands turning to technology to develop try-before-you-buy sampling. Mac has expanded Virtual Try-On to let customers test products on a live video of themselves and launched a video chat with store employess on Mac’s international websites. Through an internal study It Cometics had already found that virtual sampling  was more than twice as influential in driving purchases of their products and has moved to expand virtual try-ons and make consultants available via web and video chat to share product recommendations and guide cutomers through virtual try-ons.  Credo is also relying increasingly on its live chat function and the technology now accounts for  50% of the brand’s digital business according to COO Annie Jackson.


WINDOWSWEAR 
WindowsWear is the world’s largest creative resource for brands and retailers. Co-founded by Jon Harari, Mike Niemtzow and Raul Tovar in 2012 in New York City,  its retail visual merchandising database has an archival collection of retail and visual displays dating back to the early 1900s. Through the celebration of content and community WindowsWear acts as a channel for the world’s biggest and most influential global brads. The collection provides retailers, designers, brands and professionals with photos for competitive research, inspiration and trend ideas to create visuals for today's retail environments.  The company also organizes a number of events including  workshops, student awards and tours.
www.windowswear.com  
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All images courtesy of WindowsWear

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