Iris van Herpens’ botanical universe

Iris, more than a fashion designer you are often defined as an artist. How do the world of art and your creations interconnect?
Both art and fashion appeal to me and I see my work under the sign of pure creation and multidisciplinary creativity. My collections are about the urge to create and to experiment with the unexplored, connecting different realms. Just like an artist or a scientist would do.

As a girl, you studied ballet and the idea of movement is central to your creations. Can you tell us a bit more?
My first passion was dance. I did ballet, and through this practice I came to discover the world of costume design and its ability to create a second skin / second persona for the wearer and the body in motion. I’m also fascinated by the strength and determination that define dancers. Last year I teamed up with the Dutch National Ballet and designed costumes for the ballet dancer Jingjing Mao, which have been captured in the short film Biomimicry. In the performance the dancer finds herself in a future in which mankind, science and nature are closely interwoven – a very Iris van Herpen-esque scenario I would say.

You are considered a pioneer, are you experimenting with any new production techniques or materials?
When I started studying fashion, I realized I get easily bored with the fabrics that I had been taught to work with, so I decided to experiment not only with fabrics but also with techniques which are seen as completely innovative and unique. This way I was perceived as a pioneer of the 3D printing technique in the fashion industry. Although my more recent collections have been less experimental, I still haven’t lost my futuristic edge.


How important are nature and biomimetics in your creative process?
It was the vision we wanted to translate in our collaboration with Aubade : an innovative intricacy that expresses an organic femininity, transparency and layering and to create dynamic depth through optical linework. It is beautiful how organic linework can make your eye travel the skin, and this was the concept behind it.
I believe that the future of fashion belongs to sustainability. From eco-conscious materials to a more made-to-order production approach.

Is there an element of non-binary in your creations and how would you define femininity today?
I’ve always worked with artists that support a non-binary vision of femininity, such as Björk and Lady Gaga, and that best encapsulate the artistic femininity of my creations. In Haute Couture femininity is also considered as a form of art. This same essence was explored in the collaboration with Aubade, expressing intimacy and femininity artfully.

Would you say as a designer you have a mission?
A creator has to continuously push the boundaries of fashion design.

What role does lingerie play in the contemporary wardrobe?
I love lingerie as it is so personal, it’s often a hidden gem that is mostly a private experience. In a world that becomes more transparent every day, there is a beautiful mystery to find in lingerie.

Can you tell us how your collaboration with Aubade came about and what you are working on?
Aubade approached us for a collaboration, to work on a collection together, expressing the delicate Couture spirit of IVH closely to the skin.  First various techniques in the lace were explored with layered embroidery and color gradients embroidered in it. After the lace techniques were developed the design process started followed by the sampling process.