Ermanno Scervino

Born in Milan, Ermanno moved to Florence at a young age and considers it both his personal and professional home. During his childhood, his holidays took him to the chicest locations in Italy, destinations of choice for movie stars and the divas of the day, all of which helped to nurture his creative imagination and lay the foundations of his aesthetic philosophy. At the age of 18, he moved to Paris to begin his apprenticeship in the fashion world. Having returned to Italy, he took up studies in architecture, a subject that has a lot in common with fashion design: the pursuit of beauty through the harmony of form and color.  He then decided to concentrate on one very particular type of architecture - that of clothing on the human form - and went on to work with the biggest names in Italian fashion and luxury. During this period, he traveled constantly, living and breathing the creative atmosphere of the hippest cities of the '70s, '80s, and '90s, such as London and New York, where he was a frequent guest at the legendary Studio 54 and rubbed shoulders with Andy Warhol. The encounter that would change his life, providing the entrepreneurial arm to his creative mind, would come at the end of the 90s. It was with Toni Scervino, the company's current CEO, a Tuscan and a proud promoter of Tuscan excellence, and the support needed for Ermanno to launch his brand. Together, they founded the Ermanno Scervino fashion house in Florence in 2000. Their decision to base the brand in the Tuscan capital was crucial: at the very core of the 'couture to wear' concept for which Ermanno is so famous lie the Made in Florence label and a continuous artisanal and technological experimentation created by the merging of tailoring excellence, high-quality materials, and innovative manufacturing techniques. In this interview, the stylist unveils the founding principles of his creative universe, in which lingerie and swimwear (which have always represented for him worlds of possibility and inspiration) are now an integral part of his first line.

Mr Scervino, what are your main sources of inspiration at the moment?
They can be a whole variety of things: a film, a book, the same Florence that has always inspired me, full of art and splendor in every corner. However, it is mostly from travel and from observing reality that I take my inspiration. On the sidewalks of London or Paris I often find, amongst the mix of styles and people that can be seen there, little points of inspiration that are visible in my next collection.

How would you define the identity of the Ermanno Scervino label?
As an Italian identity, based on artisanality and on the constant striving for perfection, and as one that places above everything women and the exaltation of their beauty. It is also, however, an identity that is strongly oriented towards modernity, that takes its know-how from the past to help itself in the present, and which, despite having strong Italian roots, has an international side and takes into account women all over the world, crossing geographic boundaries.

What developments have you witnessed in the female world over the course of your career?
The principal change has been one of a growing self-awareness and freedom. Over the years, women have freed themselves from certain style restrictions and now interpret their style more freely, in a very personalized manner. Today you can wear a trouser suit on a red carpet and a lace dress as daywear; you can mix sportswear with other, more sophisticated styles; you can take texture from the male wardrobe and adapt them for the female form. I think we can say that today, women are no longer afraid to take risks.

Today's woman, as envisaged by Ermanno Scervino...
Strong, emancipated and independent. She is, above all else, a citizen of the world, as at ease in Milan as she is in New York, Saint Petersburg or Hong Kong.

Do you have any style icons?
The great legends of Italian film, from Sophia Loren to Gina Lollobrigida and Monica Vitti as well as Hollywood stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Kim Novak. I used to see them when I was young at La Campannina, the sought-after location at Forte dei Marmi, or in Costa Azzura. Their natural elegance and sensuality helped to develop my personal tastes.

In your opinion, what are the new conventions of contemporary luxury?
Women's increased stylistic freedom can also be seen in rules and conventions, which have become less restrictive and binding. Today, sportswear holds a lot of weight, combining casual items with more formal ones. I think true luxury, especially when faced with an ever-growing offer of products, is to be found in being unique, in items which have months of work behind them to bring them as close as possible to perfection. The clothes are made to enhance feminine beauty, and to do this every detail must be cared for.

Is it still economically viable for a brand to produce products in Italy through artisan methods?
Certainly, it is no easy feat, but I would not dream of doing it any other way. Here in Italy, especially in Tuscany, I have found a know-how that is simply irreproducible in other locations. I create clothes out of choice, not out of obligation and therefore I want to make them my way: with the best fabrics, the best workforce, and the best innovative techniques in order to be able to propose something new every season. 

At the creation stage, what role do fabrics play?
A pivotal one. The fabrics are the foundations of everything. I maintain that the true quality of a designer lies in being able to recognize the best fabrics and know how to bring them together with a needle and thread.  From this, you can go on to create many other, more complex and elegant things, but without that foundation, there is no fashion.

Do you have a favorite material?
I really like to vary and experiment, and I find it very interesting to combine different fabrics to get new results. Without a doubt, however, it is lace that has become the iconic fabric of my house. In the area where our headquarters are based this material has been being worked since the 19th century. I made the most of this local savoir-faire in order to create new products, Millefeuille lace for example.

What would you say is the height of bad taste?
Vulgarity. For me, femininity is at its peak when it is characterized by a veiled sensuality, a chaste and barely evident transparency. Vulgar and gratuitous displays of nudity represent the exact opposite of this femininity.