Elie Saab

Thanks to the contribution of his son, Elie Saab Jr, currently CEO and member of the board of directors, the ELIE SAAB Group is thriving. Its international network of luxury stores, from Beirut to New York, via Paris and London, has recently expanded to Milan, Abu Dhabi, Doha, and Dubai. New openings are planned in Saudi Arabia, and beyond. Today ELIE SAAB is a truly global brand, ranging from clothes to perfumes, interior design to real estate. In 2023 a further step forward was sanctioned by the collaboration with Aubade for its exclusive A/W 2023-24 capsule. Another first for Elie Saab: its world premiere on the lingerie scene! We had the pleasure of meeting him.  
Mr Saab, what are the three keywords that best describe the "Elie Saab" style?

Femininity, elegance and timelessness. I create to sublimate women.  
Materials and craftsmanship are at the center of her creative approach. What is your first memory linked to the world of materials?

My earliest memories date back to childhood, when I admired the style and beauty of the women around me. From a very young age I started creating using scraps of fabric or even curtains that I found at my parents' house. My country was at war and I couldn't access many resources. Subjects play a fundamental role in my creative process. A bit like an architect, I start from there to shape and sculpt the body.  
With Halle Berry's flower-adorned sheer burgundy dress worn at the Oscars in 2002, embroidery became somewhat of her signature. What techniques do you prefer?

To create that dress we used the thread embroidery technique, a classic method of our Maison.  
Do you have other subjects of choice? Any new material?

We are always looking for new materials, but generally we use silk a lot: duchess satin, chiffon and silk crepe.  
In general, are you more attracted by ancestral savoir-faire or technological innovations?

From technological innovations. I am tied to tradition, but I am attracted by technology and I love exploring new techniques and trying new materials. Our haute couture ateliers work in the wake of ancestral and unique savoir-faire. From embroidery to the assembly of the garment, through tailoring, everything is done by hand, without the intervention of machines. But industrial technology allows us to innovate and go further in creation, it allows us to reinvent ourselves.

Do you use 3D technologies during the creative process?
Yes, we often use them in appliqué details, to create flowers or decorative elements. Despite having offices and shops in several capitals, in particular two recent openings in Doha and Abu Dhabi, it remains very attached to its cultural heritage... My cultural heritage is important. I am often inspired by the light and colors of the Mediterranean. In general, this is reflected in the choice of materials, but also of colors. I like working with light using sequins and sequins. I also work with warm, natural tones like sand. I breathe differently when I'm in Beirut. It's more than a legacy, it's my origins.  
How would you describe the "Elie Saab woman"?

Elegant and contemporary. She is a woman of character, firm in her beliefs.  
The feminine and femininity: how have these concepts evolved over time, and how are they reflected in your creations?

If fashions change over the years, femininity and grace are timeless. Women want to feel beautiful and valued in their clothes, and my creations go in this direction. My style has evolved towards more modern cuts and materials, but the essence of my creativity has remained the same. From the beginning I have tried to sublimate women, respecting their bodies and their personalities.  
Her dresses have been worn by the most beautiful women in the world, but also by the most influential. Who is the most inspiring woman in your eyes? And who would you like to dress?

Every woman is a source of inspiration. I am fascinated by their beauty, their delicacy and their character. There is no personality that I would like to dress more than another. I am happy to dress any woman who appreciates my work and reflects the values ​​of the maison.  
What is your definition of luxury today?

For me luxury is not something material. True luxury is the time I spend with my loved ones and my family. I work a lot, so these rare moments are precious.  
Is there a pre- and post-pandemic aspect to your creative approach and style?

After the pandemic, I felt that my clientele wanted to rediscover their social life, go out, get dressed up, but also be a little more relaxed than before. Many women have opted for a chic and less extravagant style, favoring comfortable materials and cuts.  
In your opinion, what place does lingerie have in a woman's wardrobe?

A fundamental place. The woman must have a wide choice of lingerie in her wardrobe. Carefully chosen lingerie enhances the woman and she has the power to sublimate the body and the outfit worn.  
Is the "extra-ordinaire" in lingerie more a question of "seduction", "rupture", "power" or "extravagance"?

The choice of lingerie is very personal. First and foremost, the most important thing is that women feel comfortable when wearing it. Power, extravagance and seduction come later.  
What did you learn during your experience with Aubade? And what did you appreciate most?

It was a wonderful experience. Aubade's creative approach and her vision of the feminine are very similar to mine. Lingerie is an important product in a woman's wardrobe, a nice set can change the look.  
How did you transpose the uniqueness of your style into a technical product like Aubade's corsetry?

I worked on the codes shared by Elie Saab and Aubade: femininity and elegance. I wanted a sensual collection, without the slightest vulgarity.  
What is your favorite item from the capsule created with Aubade?

I like them all, and I love the variety that the collection offers, with more casual pieces for the day and others designed for the evening. I love bodysuits that can be worn on any occasion, or even as ready-to-wear items.                                                                                               Finally, a question is a must: has this exciting encounter with lingerie made you want to launch a line of underwear to complete her total look?

We have always had some lingerie items in our collections, but without ever really focusing on this segment. Yes, in the future I would like to have a lingerie line to offer customers the most complete Elie Saab wardrobe possible, but for the moment it is still too early.

Aubade shares with the Elie Saab maison the refinement of luxury materials, the refinement of combinations and the valorization of women: a new collection was created on these common elements, the result of the collaboration between the two maisons. The “My Desire” underwear and “Whimsical Affair” night lingerie sets are inspired by a joyful and conscious seduction. The cuts are feminine, the chiaroscuro embroidery iridescent on the bare skin. Playing on these seductive atmospheres, Elie Saab accentuates the refinement of Aubade's feminine signature. Thanks to its profound knowledge of shapes, the sophisticated "French embroidery" creates second-skin sets that seem to merge with the body. The Elie Saab logo lands here and there on her garments, in contrast with the impalpable tulle, evoking a sensual game of transparency and see-through. The line is available in two colours: “Naughty black”, an intense black that flirts with a golden effect, and “Love affair”, an elegant nude pink that evokes the effect of bare skin lingerie. The Elie Saab x Aubade collection masterfully sublimates all shapes and silhouettes. It includes a non-wired triangle bralette, an underwired triangle bra, a balcony bra, a padded plunge bra and a corset, to be combined with thongs, Rio briefs, Italian briefs or St. Tropez shorty. The collection is completed by a garter belt, two bodysuits and a nightwear proposal, with a tank top, a dressing gown, a pair of shorts, silk trousers and a fluid kimono. The capsule will be available in stores from next July. an intense black that flirts with the golden effect, and “Love affair”, an elegant nude pink that evokes the effect of bare skin lingerie. The Elie Saab x Aubade collection masterfully sublimates all shapes and silhouettes. It includes a non-wired triangle bralette, an underwired triangle bra, a balcony bra, a padded plunge bra and a corset, to be combined with thongs, Rio briefs, Italian briefs or St. Tropez shorts. The collection is completed by a garter belt, two bodysuits, and a nightwear proposal, with a tank top, a dressing gown, a shorty, silk trousers, and a fluid kimono. The capsule will be available in stores from next July.